Ice Dam Solutions

Living in Wisconsin, you have probably experienced ice damming on your home. If you are lucky, your roof was properly installed and this has not caused any damage to your home. Ice and water shield installed several feet from eaves and in valleys is an essential step in protecting your home that is often overlooked by “bargain basement” roofing companies and their unsuspecting clients. High quality materials and installation of roofing will protect your assets, however, many people still wonder why they continue to see the ice dams even after the roof is replaced. The simple answer is that the roof has absolutely nothing to do with the formation of ice dams. In fact, ice damming is due primarily to heated indoor air warming the underside of the roof deck and escaping through the roof. How can this be prevented? Proper attic insulation and air sealing. The level of insulation in the attic of most homes (even newer ones) is completely insufficient, and air sealing is practically non-existent. To properly address this, air sealing entails the use of expanding foams, caulks, etc, to seal any and all penetrations from the attic to the heated living space. This includes: around the chimney, plumbing stack(s), electrical boxes and lights, top plates, etc. After proper air sealing measures are taken, add blown-in cellulose insulation to achieve a level of R-50 to R-60. To check the r-value of your current insulation, you can look at the label of fiberglass rolls, or figure an R-value of 2.2 per inch of depth for old, existing blown-in product.

Insulating and Air sealing your home

When you think about improving the comfort level and energy-efficiency of your home, what is the first thing that comes to mind? Replacement windows? A new furnace? The truth is, these items do in fact provide increased comfort and savings, and are worthwhile investments, however most times they are not the going to deliver the best “bang for the buck”. Your home has to be looked at as an entire “system” with multiple components that control its efficiency. The goal is for YOU, not mother nature to be able to dictate the operation and efficiency of your home, and this is done by getting your home sealed as well as possible. Due to the principles of convection and radiation, the greatest area of heat loss for your home is through the attic. That is why air sealing, insulation, and proper ventilation of your attic is one of the most important AND cost-effective ways to increase the efficiency and comfort level in your home. Attic insulation is not the most glamorous improvement you can make, and you won’t be able to SEE the fruits of your investment on a daily basis, however you will FEEL them, and your energy-bill will show them.

The window numbers game.

“How do you choose a good replacement window? What is the difference between the $200 vinyl window and the $500 vinyl window? They both look the same, right???”… These are some of the most common questions I hear from folks who are shopping for windows. One common answer is that “The truth is in the numbers,” as in the NFRC and/or AAMA performance numbers. This statement is true, however it is not comprehensive. The fact is, you can only find the truth in the numbers if you fully understand what they mean, so here is a quick rundown:
-U-value: The U-value, or U-factor is probably the single most important number to look at in a window, as it states the thermal performance. As the U-value gets lower numerically, the thermal efficiency increases. It can be difficult to determine the quality of a window however based on the u-value, as inferior products do offer glass packages with decent u-values, and high quality products also offer several glass choices. Be sure when comparing u-values that each window’s number is for the “total unit”, including glass and frame as this is the “true” u-value as determined by the NFRC. Some companies use “center of glass” or COG ratings which typically run much lower. This practice is typically used with the intention to mislead consumers.
-R-value: The R-value or R-factor is just another way to classify the thermal performance of a window. To convert U-value to R-value, you would take 1/u-value. So a u-value of .30 = an R value of 3.333. Generally u-value is preferred when measuring the performance of a window. Once again, the practice of using R-values is often confusing and misleading, many times using the “center of glass” value mentioned above.
-SHGC, or Solar Heat Gain Coefficient is essentially a measurement of the amount of solar heat that is allowed to pass through the window. The climate in which you live will determine the ideal level of shgc that you will want. Generally shgc ranges from the .1X’s to the .3X’s. Homes in hot sunny climates want a lower number, while homes in colder areas still want to take advantage of some of that passive solar heat in the heating months, so a little bit higher number is better. Typically the shgc is somewhat of a balancing act with u-value, as to what will provide the best overall energy efficiency.
-CR is Condensation Resistance. This measurement reflects how well the window replacement will resist condensation. Generally a window with better thermal efficiency will have a better CR rating, however the design of the unit as well as how tightly it seals will have an effect as well.
-VT is Visible Transmittance. This measures how much light is allowed to pass through the window. Some homes that don’t see much sunlight or have abnormally small window openings may be more concerned with this rating, however it generally is not given much weight in the selection.
-DP is Design Pressure. This is a structural test administered to measure the overall strength of the window assembly and it’s ability to stand up to wind forces. For this purpose, it does not have much bearing on most consumers who do not live in hurricane zones, however the DP rating can give some idea as to how well the window is constructed, and how it will stand up over years of service. Most vinyl windows have a DP rating of 30-35, however many models that are reinforced with fiberglass, aluminum, or some other material will have ratings from DP 45 – DP 65 or even 70. A DP 50 is generally considered quite good, and demonstrates a well designed and constructed product. It is worth mentioning that non-metallic (fiberglass and other variants) reinforcements are considered to be superior to aluminum or steel due to their less conductive properties.
-AI/AL is Air Infiltration/Air Leakage– the terms are interchangeable. This rating tells you how much air will pass through the entire unit. Most people are replacing windows primarily do to them leaking air, so the AI rating is certainly worth consideration. The AAMA gold label standard is set at .30, however, there are products on the market that go as low as .01 in a double hung, and even better in a casement.
…. So there it is. This list is not 100% comprehensive, however it is certainly the nuts and bolts of what each rating means, and how it effects you as a consumer. It should give you enough knowledge to find “truth in the numbers”. Some other intangible but very important aspects of your window replacement decision are reputation of the company/manufacturer, and record of quality control and customer service. It can take a little effort to get a good feel for a product in this regard, however there are many online sources such as blogs and forums where consumers and professionals alike give objective (hopefully) feedback based on their own experience.

Final days for Energy Tax Credit!

The Federal energy tax credit of up to $1500 on a qualifying replacement window purchase comes to an end on December 31st. The catch is that the windows MUST be INSTALLED in your home by that date to be eligible. HomeSealed will guarantee any window replacement project to be installed in time, however the cut-off date is (contract must be received by) November 15th… Time is running out, take advantage of these savings while you can!

What to look for in a roofing contractor

Now that its fall, it is a great idea to assess the condition of your roof to insure that you don’t encounter catastophic problems come the middle of winter. A few things to look for: signs of leakage, curling, buckling, or missing shingles and lots of granules in the gutters. These are a few signs that you may be in need of a new roof replacement, and it would at least be advisable to have a professional come out for a look.
That brings up the next question, how do you choose a roofing contractor? The first and most obvious thing to do is to check out the business you are considering for membership and/or any complaints with NARI and the BBB. This can easily be done online. The next thing to look for, is the product that the contractor is offering, and whether or not he/she is “certified” by that manufacturer. This is very important, as a certified contractor will not only be very familiar with that product and it’s recommended installation procedures in order to preserve your warranty, but most times the certification actually allows them to offer substantially more warranty coverage. Most roofing projects can actually be completed within a day or two, and by following these guidlines, you should have a roof that is guaranteed to last for years to come.

Energy savings Guarantee!

Have you heard the ads touting ” 40, 49, or even 50% energy-savings guaranteed”? I have, and I am often asked about this by potential customers. I have a very simple answer: BS!… “Well”, they say, “but it is guaranteed!” Sure there may technically be a guarantee, but read the fine print and you’ll be less than impressed. First, the guarantee applies to usage, not dollars, second there is a cap that the companies put on the amount that they will pay as the difference. Usually a maximum of $500 only for the first year. The sad part is, you’ll likely never even see a dime of that, due to the fact that the company will have you jumping through hoops providing documentation, and meeting a million ridiculous restrictions such as attic and/or wall insulation, furnace efficiency, etc. … Can you save 40-50% with replacement windows? Sure it is possible, but pretty rare in my experience. A typical home with original wood windows will probably save somewhere between 15-30%. I strongly recommend against using anyone who offers such a guarantee. I feel that it is an unethical and dishonest practice, and is usually accompanied by questionable pricing and sales tactics among other things. You’ll be much better served finding a window contractor who is honest upfront, rather than using dubious tactics just to get you in the door.

Project Gallery

The project gallery is now up at www.HomeSealed.com. You’ll see just a snippet of some of the projects that we’ve recently completed including replacement windows, vinyl siding, decks, and doors, and roofing.
check it out here: Remodeling Gallery

Window condensation

“What is the deal with window condensation?” This is a question that I hear pretty frequently especially in the colder months. Unfortunately, I even hear it sometimes after a client has already gotten replacement windows. Basically, window condensation occurs when warm, moist air on the inside of your home cools and contracts and its moisture condenses. Most of the time this will happen on the coldest surface in your home which often is the glass of your windows. “Does this mean my windows are bad?” No, most of the time it does not mean that. By getting replacement windows you will have a warmer temperture on that interior glass surface, therefore reducing the likelihood of condensation, however if your home is damp enough, even the best windows in the world can develop condensation. This could be a sign of a moisture problem in your home. Sources of moisture are people, pets, plants, cooking, etc. Problematic sources of moisture could be basement issues, as well as improper ventilation in the attic or other areas. Getting your home completely sealed with new windows, insulation, etc. came sometimes make these problems appear worse as moisture used to be able to escape through those same areas.
“What can be done to address this?” There are a few things that you can do to regulate the level of moisture in your home. 1: Increase ventilation. Make sure attic vents are open and clear, make sure all exhaust fans from kitchens and bathrooms are properly ventilated out of the house (not just into the attic). 2: Monitor the humidity level in your home with a humidistat or humidity monitor. If necessary, run a dehumidifier in the basement to keep the indoor humidity level around 30-35% or less in winter. A few other small things would be to group plants in one room and avoid over-watering, and also keep window treatments open when possible to allow warm air to circulate across the glass and keep its temperture up as high as possible.

Energy saving tips

Now that we are in the middle of winter, it becomes a bit easier to tell where you home’s heat retention shortcomings reside. Maybe your walls are cold, your basement is freezing, or you can feel (or even see) a cold draft coming in around your doors and windows. Obviously it would be ideal to get replacement windows, doors, or insulation, but sometimes it just isn’t in the budget. Here are a few tips to save you some money, and add some comfort in your home for a low-cost.
As mentioned in previous posts, windows and doors can be a huge source of heat loss. There are a few things you can do to improve this short of window replacement. First, is the good-old window plastic. It is ugly, inconvenient, and a pain to apply, however it really does work when properly installed. A slightly more visually appealling option altough it doesn’t work quite as well, would be “seal and peel” caulking. This is a type a clear caulk that you can apply to areas of the windows that experience air-infiltration. It will semi-harden, and be ready to peel off in spring just like the plastic would be. One thing to keep in mind with either of these methods however, is that they can pull paint or finish off when removed.
On doors, you can actually do a more effective, somewhat permanent fix by replacing (or adding) weather stripping around the opening, as well as the threshold. You should be able to pick up the proper products to seal up one door for around $10-$20 from any hardware or home store.

Is now the time to replace my windows?

I am frequently asked by potential clients if it is “worth it” to replace their windows, and when is the “right time”. It sounds like a simple question, but the truth is, it really depends on what you value, the condition of your home, and your budget. Timing-wise, I don’t think there has ever been a better time for replacement windows. As I sit here in Milwaukee, it is 9 degrees outside and I can’t think of a better time for you to start saving money on energy-savings. According to the U.S. Department of Energy and HUD, 71% (on average) of a home’s heating dollars, and 40% of a home’s total energy is lost through windows and doors. Can you believe that?! Now don’t get me wrong, replacement windows are not going to save you that full 71% on your heating bill, however it is realistic to look for a savings anywhere from 15-50% depending on circumstances. That really is not chump-change. In addition, this time of year is the beginning of the slow season for window contractors, that means discounted prices, and quicker turn-around times. When you add in the federal tax credit of 30% up to $1500 back on your window purchase, I can’t think of any time when window replacement has been a better deal… Now, that being said, is it time to replace your windows? Here are a few questions to help you answer that: What is the age and condition of your existing windows? Is there any water damage/wood rot evident? This is an important factor, as this could (and may have already) lead to water infiltration in your walls causing possible structural issues as well as mold… Are your windows easily operated or painted shut? Are they an eyesore and possible detriment to the value of your home? If you answered “yes” to these questions, then it is time for replacement windows in your home. Check out my other posts on the next steps to take in the process. Good Luck, and stay warm!

Next Page »